A guide to experiencing Marrakesh with kids

Marrakesh, nicknamed the “red city” (for the city’s red clay and sandstone buildings), aka Morocco’s beating heart. Okay, so I made that moniker up, but there really is something vibrant, pulsing, sprawling, and almost alive about Marrakesh, that made it not just one of the cities we had to visit on our trip, but the first – an immersive introduction into what Morocco is all about. And I don’t think we are alone in this, as Marrakesh is Morocco’s 4th largest city, but the most visited.

But Marrakesh can also feel overwhelming, especially for kids. There is so much history and culture. There are places of absolute chaos (Jemaa El-Fnaa square) and places of zen (Jardin Majorelle), all of which can go right over the heads of most kids. I’m going to be completely honest – our kids’ most memorable part of Marrakesh was the cats. 😛

However, Marrakesh is a very special experience with kids. I was amazed how quickly Big and Lil S adapted to strolling through the Medina alongside crowds and motorcycles (and cats), to eating khobz (Moroccan flatbread) with lentil dip and drinking pomegranate juice by the side of the road. Even if you don’t make it to all of the sites, Marrakesh is an immersive cultural experience unlike any other.

How many days to spend in Marrakesh with kids?

We have a pretty firm travel philosophy that we only do 1 activity/sightseeing a day (maximum 2, if the second activity is less involved/more chill.) This keeps kids from feeling overwhelmed, and gives them plenty of time to unwind and to really absorb where they are.

We feel 3 days is the ideal amount of time for Marrakesh. This is enough time to explore the highlights, but also builds in downtime to relax. If you want to add a day trip from Marrakesh (eg. Essaouria or Ouzoud waterfall), we would tack on another day. I think any more time in the city, and our kids would start to feel overstimulated by the crowds, the traffic, and the perpetual activity. Big and Lil S generally enjoyed Morocco’s countryside better than its big cities. Even if your time in Morocco is limited (eg. 1 week), I would definitely suggest venturing out of the city for part of your trip (eg. Agafay desert, Ait Ben Haddou).

Where to stay in Marrakesh

There are 2 main options for family-friendly accommodation in Marrakesh. The first is a modern hotel or resort away from the city centre (Medina). The second is a riad in the Medina itself.

Staying in a hotel or resort is the better option for more of a getaway or “vacation” vibe. Marrakesh has all the modern hotel chains, as well as several of Morocco’s few all-inclusive resorts. This is good for families who want more amenities, and want to lounge and play in the pools. The downside of this is having to hire transportation to get you places, especially inside the Medina.

Staying in a riad is the more “authentic” way to experience Marrakesh. A riad is a family home that has been converted into a small hotel or BnB. These are typically smaller and older than your classic hotel. Most of these have central “courtyards”, common eating and lounging spaces, with multiple stories that lead to bedrooms. Most riads are centrally located in the Medina, within easy walking distance to attractions, and tons of food options.

Be aware that some riads do not allow kids. Some riads are also only 2 persons a room, so you may need to book more than 1 room. We were lucky that we traveled as a group of 8 (2 families), and could book out the entire riad. We booked ours on airbnb, and it was one of our favourite stays in Morocco. (Riad Dar 28, for anyone interested!) It had 4 bedrooms, a small pool, and 4 floors (including a rooftop patio and a second rooftop deck) – plenty of space to entertain the kids.

Family friendly riads in Marrakesh include:

• Riad Yasmine – a gorgeously appointed traditional riad. While the main riad only had rooms that accommodate 2-3 guests, Riad Yasmine also offers 2 “little sister” riads that accommodate 6-8 guests.
• Riad Les Hibiscus – a boutique riad offering family rooms, with pool, hammam, and restaurant on site.
• Riad Africa – a larger riad with a selection of family rooms, and *two* pools

How to get around Marrakesh

DO. Not. Drive. Driving in Marrakesh is mayhem. Some areas of the Medina are pedestrian only, and the streets that do allow cars are *tiny*. There were times we felt like we were brushing up against walls on both sides – and that’s not accounting for 2 way traffic, the pedestrians, the motorcycles, and the occasional donkey cart. Even outside the Medina, there is a lot of traffic and congestion. If you are planning to rent a car to explore the rest of Morocco, we suggest returning to the airport to pick this up.

If you are staying in the Medina, all the sites are pretty much walkable. (You are looking around a 20 minute walking radius.) The main attraction outside the Medina is Jardin Marjorelle, for which you can hire a taxi. Taxis in Marrakesh are metered. Insist on using the meter when hailing a taxi, as some drivers will try to up-charge you at the end. For larger groups of people, have your hotel call you a grand taxi (sits 7-8). Grand taxi prices are usually fixed and negotiated ahead of time. Take down this driver’s number so you can contact them for pick up after your sightseeing.

In Morocco, car seats are technically mandatory for children < 12, although this was rarely enforced (and we passed a fair share of police checks across the country). Car seats are not always available even when renting a car, so best to bring your own if needed.

Airport transportation

To get to and from the airport, you can take a taxi or have the hotel pre-arrange a grand taxi or driver. To make things easier, there is a taxi booking office at the arrivals terminal (called kech.cab). The cost to drive from the airport to the Medina is around 13-15 euros.

(We had pre-booked a grand taxi through our airBnB that cost us 40 euros for our group of 8. We thought the premium was worth it for not having to figure things out ourselves after a long travel day. Furthermore, the benefit of having a pre-arranged driver is they know exactly where to go. Navigating the Medina can be as confusing as heck, even for a taxi!)

What to see in Marrakesh with kids

Sightseeing Marrakesh with kids can be a little tricky. Many of the sites are famous for its architecture and history, and there are only so many buildings our kids are willing to see before they are over it. We would suggest trying to pick one main sight per day. You can spend the rest of the time exploring the Medina, or enjoying your hotel. Intersperse the history-heavy sightseeing with day-trips and adrenaline activities (camel rides, ATV tours, hot-air ballon rides) can help keep the kids engaged.

The top sights in Marrakesh include (with kids’ ratings):

Jemaa El-Fnaa Square (6/10)

Jemaa El-Fnaa is Marrakesh’s main market square, in the heart of the Medina. It comes alive at night, with stalls selling street food, juices, and all sorts of trinkets. Entertainers and buskers perform for coin – including snake charmers and men with monkeys. It is a literal cacophony of sights, sounds, and smells. The perimeter is lined with cafes and restaurants where you can pay for a balcony view overlooking the square below.

A popular spot is Cafe Glacier (which does *not* actually sell ice cream as we thought, but sells tea and sodas). If you buy a drink, the staff will lead you to their balcony with prime views of Jemaa El-Fnaa. You can even see sunset. Plan to arrive at least 30 minutes before sunset. The balcony fills up and the staff stop letting people in, and even then it is sometimes standing room only.

We have mixed thoughts about Jemaa El-Fnaa. It is definitely an eye-opening experience, and takes a life of its own at night. But we didn’t want to buy anything, and didn’t want to risk eating anything, as we had heard of a handful of people getting sick after eating at the market stalls (be particularly wary of fruit juices that have been left out in containers for hours in the heat).

We also didn’t want to encourage the animal experiences, which we felt was definitely exploiting the animals. Some of the snakes were held in place by rocks, and the monkeys wore diapers. We had vendors pretty aggressively try to drape snakes around the kids for money, or trying to get the kids to take photos with the monkeys. Luckily, the kids were not particularly disturbed and took it all in with wide eyes, but it got overwhelming and a bit stressful after awhile. We definitely preferred to people-watch and take in the chaos from Cafe Glacier with a cool beverage!

Ben Youssef Madrasa (7/10)

Big S was very enthusiastic about this, because he has two good friends named Ben and Yusuf. 😛

Ben Youssef Madrasa is an ancient Islamic college – the largest in the African Arab world – and an architectural marvel of mosaic tilework and intricately carved wood. The kids enjoyed the colourful space, and liked exploring the student dormitories on the upper floors. While the main courtyard was quite crowded (even at 9 in the morning), the upstairs was quiet and perfect for taking the time to admire the handiwork. The kids enjoyed this more than the palaces, I think maybe because they related more to the student life. 😛

You can buy tickets at the door.

Bahia Palace/El Badi Palace (5/10)

Bahia Palace was built in the 1800s for the grand vizers (head of state) at the time. It is a series of courtyards and gardens, with intricate mosaics, woodwork, and painted ceilings. You can buy tickets at the door. The kids obligingly toured the entire palace, but were less enthusiastic about it than Ben Youssef, having already admired the architecture of the former. It is also a bigger, emptier space. The kids became more and more interested in running around and less interested in admiring anything as the self-guided tour progressed. They did enjoy the garden courtyards (especially the one that had a resident cat :P).

We wanted to move from Bahia Palace to El Badi Palace, right next to it. El Badi is the ruins of a palace built in the 1500s for the sultan of the times. However, the kids were definitely lagging by the time we finished with Bahia Palace, so we called it a day and went to find somewhere for dinner, instead. If you would like to tour both sights, we suggest doing them on different days.

Interestingly, the restaurant we chose was right next to El Badi, and you can see the large storks that build nests all around El Badi’s wall come and go. (The kids definitely found this more interesting than admiring architecture. :P)

Jardin Majorelle (7/10)

Jardin Majorelle is probably the only attraction you need to plan a bit in advance for. Tickets do sell out, and you will want to buy them online at least a day or two before your visit time. It is also outside of the Medina, so you will need to plan for transportation.

Jardin Majorelle is an urban botanical garden designed by French artist Jacque Majorelle in the 1900s and – more famously – purchased by Yves Saint Laurent in the 1980s. It houses a number of exotic plants, cacti, cute and colourful corners (very instagrammable) and a striking blue villa (also very instagrammable).

The kids enjoyed this. They liked taking photos of all the cool cacti. Even though the garden was fairly crowded, they still felt like they were exploring and discovering all the different paths.

There is the Yves Saint Laurent museum nearby, but we chose to forgo this with the kids.

Explore the Medina (9/10)

Even if you don’t hit up any of the ticketed sites above, and spend your days (and nights, a totally different vibe!) wandering the Medina, you will have experienced Marrakesh. 😛 It is such a textured and cultured place, where you feel richer just by being here. We visited a handful of Medinas in cities across Morocco, but Marrakesh felt the most authentic and “Morocco-y”.

We enjoyed exploring the souks – marketplaces that sell Moroccan specialities like textiles, lamps, and spices – interspersed with cafes and restaurants. But the Medina is also a place where people live. You can see children walking to and from school, people sweeping their doorsteps, shops selling children’s toys and cleaning products, locals eating lunch at stalls by the road. Big S bought water and sampled local pop (Hawaii – the kids became obsessed with this stuff) from the kiosk near our riad. He got to watch kids even younger than him count out coins to buy two eggs or a small carton of milk.

And cats everywhere. Big and Lil S were perpetually on the lookout for the next cat. They kept a running tally of all the cats they saw (and by the end of our trip was up in the 1000s).

Medina Safety

We read a lot of advice about not wandering the Medina on your own. We read that it was easy to get lost, and even easier to be scammed and harassed into buying things.

Overall, we felt *very* safe, even walking around the Medina at night. Only in Jemaa El-fnaa did we feel harried by vendors. For the most part, if you don’t initiate an interaction with a shop owner, they leave you alone. We only had 1 instance of a “Good Samaritan” try to bring us to a “special market”. (Be wary of friendly strangers offering you directions – this is a common scam in the Medina.) We found Google Maps to be surprisingly accurate, down to dead-ends and narrow alleyways, and found the Medina reasonably easy to navigate.

Be careful of the Medina traffic, especially with children. Some Medina streets do allow cars – be exceptionally wary of these, as it is such a tight squeeze the cars sometimes brush past you to get by. Most of the Medina is “pedestrian only” – but this also includes mopeds, motorcycles, and small trucks carrying goods.

Should I hire a guide?

You can book half day and full day guided tours through your riad, travel agencies and websites like Viator, or through Airbnb Experiences. These tours run around $30-40 USD per person. Besides introducing you to the Medina, guides also offer insight into the various products, like spices, textiles, leather goods. Some tours will include things like cooking experiences, etc.

We navigated the Marrakesh Medina entirely on our own, and did not feel we needed a guide. Half the pleasure of the Medina is simply wandering around the place and seeing what you discover. We did take a guided Medina tour in Fez, and the kids actually did not enjoy this. There was too much talking, and too many stops at various vendors to learn about goods the kids had no interest in. Some people will recommend guides to help fend off aggressive vendors and to keep you from getting scammed, but as aforementioned, we did not find this to be much of an issue.

Eating in Marrakesh with kids

We tend not to make a big deal of meals, because Big and Lil S have no patience for sitting down to eat. Mealtime for them is definitely a necessity, and not an experience. 😛 We mostly googled “restaurants near us” wherever we ended up. Thankfully, we had no bad experiences, but we do have some tips on mealtimes in Marrakesh with kids in tow.

1) Choose hotels and riads that include breakfast

Hotels and riads that provide breakfast is a *huge* plus (and many do). Besides saving a few dollars, it’s a relief not to have to search up where to eat 3 times a day, particularly first thing in the morning. And traditional Moroccan breakfasts are so delightful our kids looked forward to it every morning, complete with a variety of drinks, breads, and spreads. By the end, we all had favourites. (Msemen was a hit with everyone. This is sort of a crispy/chewy version of Moroccan pancake, commonly eaten with jams. The kids ate theirs with chocolate powder. :P) Talk about starting your day on the right foot!

2) Have your riad organize dinner on your arrival night

Most riads have the option for their cook/housekeeper to prepare traditional meals (they are also the ones who prepare breakfast), provided you give them 1-2 days notice. A classic moroccan meal is usually meat and/or vegetable tagines, with breads, salads, and dips. The cost is comparable or slightly higher to dining at an average price restaurant. This is particularly helpful the night of your arrival, or after a long day-trip. You do *not* want to be dragging your kids out after a travel day looking for food.

3) Use cafes and restaurants as a chance to escape the hustle and bustle of the riad

Having a light meal or a snack at a sit down place is a good way for kids to catch a break from all the walking and activity of the Medina. One of our kids favourite meals in Marrakesh was at Ice Mama. We stumbled upon this cafe after a morning of exploring the Medina. Initially, we wanted to eat at the Jardin Secret (a zen spot inside the Medina) – but there was an exceptionally long line, *and* an expensive cover fee to enter. The kids were definitely feeling the heat (and the hanger), and the quiet patio at Ice Mama was just what they needed (not to mention the delicious ice cream).

4) Kid-friendly Moroccan food options

As mentioned, traditional Morocco food is tagine, tagine, and more tagine. This is usually served with bread, olives, and cold vegetables/dips (lentils, eggplant). Even foods kids are familiar with – eg. pastas, sandwiches – are served with different fillings and sauces. This can be a little challenging for kids who are pickier eaters. Our kids are reasonably adventurous eaters, but they definitely had their favourites.

• Meat kebobs – barbecued beef or chicken skewers were always hits.
• Kefta tagine – “kefta” is a type of small Moroccan sausage/meatball, served in a tomato based sauce. This was easily the most kid-friendly tagine we had, and is found on most menus.
• Tagine with plum/prune sauce – this type of tagine (can be with any meat) has a kid-approved sweet and sour flavour and dried fruit.
• Couscous – our kids don’t *love* couscous, but they will eat it both plain or with vegetables. It is mild, and an option for kids who don’t like spices. However, couscous is not always available (in some touristy spots it may be, but in most restaurants it is served on Fridays only).

4) Recommendations for kid-friendly spots to eat in Marrakesh (in the Medina)

• Ice Mama – I have to mention the kids’ favourite spot, serving light foods and delicious ice creams/sorbets. (Not as easy to find as I thought it would be in a country as hot as Morocco. As we later learned from our Berber driver, many Moroccans do not regularly eat ice cream!) After days of tagine, their omelettes really hit the spot.
• Dabachi Chez Cherif – a family owned restaurant with an outdoor patio on one of the busiest alleyways in the Medina, right next to Jemaa El-Fnaa. It serves traditional Moroccan fare, and, most importantly for the kids, kebobs. This is also a great spot to people watch.
• Medina Burger – cheeseburgers. Need I say more? (Their specialty is the Tanjia burger, a burger with a Moroccan twist.)
• Bacha coffee house – not exactly for the kids, this one is mostly for parents of kids who love coffee. 😛 BUT they also serve delicious pastries (for a bit of a premium, but the architecture/experience/vibe is worth it).

Tips for visiting Marrakesh with kids

As you may have gleaned from our article, Marrakesh is not a kid-friendly city in the traditional sense. The attractions are not “geared” toward children, and like much of the country, the city lacks the playgrounds and green spaces we usually take for granted with kids. You do need to be constantly vigilant with children when out and about, with all the traffic and crowds. However, if visiting Morocco, Marrakesh is an absolute must visit spot, a singularly authentic and unique experience for kids and adults alike, and can absolutely be kid-friendly when done right.

Be extra careful about the traffic

The most nerve-wracking part of exploring the Medina with kids was avoiding the motorcycles and carts that plow right through the crowds. Big S and Lil S are a little older now, and it didn’t take long for them to understand they had to stick to the side of the road, and move way to the edge when motorized vehicles raced by. If they had been younger, I would have been gripping on to those hands for dear life. (This is only true for the busier roads. Many alleyways in the Medina are quiet.) As it was, we always had the kids walk in front of or between adults.

For toddlers, consider using a carrier to navigate those busier roads. The streets are bumpy and crowded, and not stroller friendly.

Take extra precautions regarding food and water safety

I think we were probably a little overly cautious about what we ate in Marrakesh. But we had heard so many horror stories of people getting sick, and we definitely did not need that when traveling with kids. (In the end, I think this was the right move, as we were in Morocco for over 2 weeks, and no one in our party of 8 got sick!)

When enjoying the Medina, we suggest avoiding street food as much as you can. Avoid foods not sold behind glass (eg. you can find tons of stalls selling baked goods and Morocco’s infamous nougat, some right out in the open). Avoid meats and juices that have been left out. (Fresh juice such as orange, pomegranate, or sugar cane squeezed on the spot is a safer bet.)

Tap water in Morocco is not safe to drink. When eating out, avoid ice, and avoid raw vegetables and fruits that cannot be peeled.

Do not over schedule

I think we have driven the point home on this, but it is so important not to do too much on any given day.

More so than most of the other countries we’ve visited, we found that kids could only handle small doses of sightseeing in Marrakesh every day. The last thing you want is for your memories of Marrakesh to be of whining kids and frazzled parents trying to keep bored children from playing raucous games of tag in an ancient palace. (True story? … Maybe. :P)

Use your riad (or hotel) for downtime

Second to the cats, our riad was hands down the kids’ next favourite thing about Marrakesh. They loved the courtyard and open dining and living spaces. They loved chilling on the patio, and we had a great view of the Medina from our rooftop – we could even see Koutoubia mosque. What they really appreciated was the freedom to run about and play in their own space.

Our riad even had a small pool in the courtyard, which was a huge hit. Keep in mind that most pools in Morocco are not heated – it felt cold to me, but the kids didn’t mind.

Add day-trips and kid-friendly activities

As we’ve always said, our kids prefer doing over seeing, any day. In the countryside around Marrakesh, you can find companies that lead ATV tours or camel tours. For something extra special, book a hot air balloon tour (keep in mind these start *very* early in the morning, before sunrise).

Day tours and getting out of the city can be a good change of pace and something new to see. Easy day trips include:

– Ourika Valley

Only 30 minutes away from Marrakesh, this is a nice change of scenery from city sights. There are easy hiking trails that take you along rivers, cascades, and small waterfalls, and traditional Berber villages. Many small restaurants set up right along the river, you so can enjoy a tagine on the riverbank or even in the river itself. (Very instagrammable!) We did a similar hike in Chefchaouen, Akchour Waterfalls, and the kids loved it!

– Ouzoud Waterfalls

2.5 hours from Marrakesh, these are the highest waterfalls in North Africa. You can hike, swim, and take a tourist-y boat that brings you to the base of the falls. This is also a good place to spot Barbary macaque monkeys (the same monkeys you’ll find at Jemaa El-fnaa, but wild).

– Ben Ait Haddou

A popular stop on the way from Marrakesh to the Sahara, but also a good day trip. (Although personally we would recommend an overnight trip!) Ben Ait Haddou is an insanely well-preserved ancient village that used to be on the merchant road between the Sahara and Marrakesh. It is also a famous “middle-east” movie backdrop, featured in films like Gladiator, the Mummy, and Game of Thrones. It’s a 3 hour drive across the High Atlas Mountains, but the stunning views and fun hairpin turns makes the trip feel shorter.

– Essaouira

A seaside town with a gorgeous stretch of beach, fresh seafood, and a picturesque Medina. It is about 3 hours from Marrakesh. We did a day-trip here, and although we enjoyed the beach, I don’t think we would choose to do it again. The driving felt very long, and the landscape was fairly boring. You do pass many argan trees along the way. Our kids were looking forward to seeing the infamous tree-climbing goats, but were then told by our driver most farmers discourage this as they damage the trees. While Essaouria can be done as a day trip, it would be more enjoyable to spend a few days before/after visiting Marrakesh.

Interested in traveling to Marrakesh and Morocco with kids? Drop us a line, and check out our Morocco series!