24 hours in Chefchaouen: Morocco with kids

Chefchaouen, the “Blue Pearl” of Morocco, tucked against the picturesque Rif mountains, and – at least according to the Daily Mail – the most Instagrammable city in the world.

In our other articles, we’d described Marrakesh as Morocco’s beating heart, and Fez as its soul… in that case, Chefchaouen must be the gem of Morocco. It’s *very* aesthetic, and one of the most coveted spots amongst visitors to Morocco. It definitely has more of a tourist vibe, even apparent in the variety of cuisines and restaurants you can find around town. There is not nearly as much history in Chefchaouen as some of Morocco’s other cities, but it makes up for it with enticing alleyways and picture-perfect nooks and crannies at every turn. There is no real need to hire a guide here, no checklist of sights to see, which can feel like a nice change of pace from Morocco’s other cities.

Chefchaouen’s Medina is comparatively small, very walkable, and can easily be seen in 1 day. However, we do not recommend seeing it in 1 day. Chefchaouen’s most magical hours are in the evening, when it is most vibrant and alive, and early in the morning, when you feel like you have the town to yourself. We recommend arriving around mid-day or early afternoon, enjoying the city in the evening, staying overnight, and then taking a photo safari early next morning.

We also recommend an extra day to explore the surroundings. The area of Chefchaouen had some of our favourites day-trips, including one of our favourite Moroccan hikes at Akchour Waterfalls.

What is so special about Chefchaouen?

Chefchaouen’s Medina is entirely blue (mxed with some white). Bright blue, soft blue, sapphire blue, sky blue, cerulean blue… you get the idea. 😉 From buildings, steps, alleyways, walls, everything seemed to have been painted blue. Think Santorini of Morocco. Why? Nobody really knows. A popular theory is the religious significance of blue to the Jewish population that first escaped to Morocco from the Spanish Inquisition. Others claim blue keeps mosquitos at bay, and even some say it was a tourism ploy in the 1970s. In any case, the blue is unique, pretty, and makes for striking photos, especially against the beautiful backdrop of the Rif mountains.

Despite Chefchaouen’s complex history as a haven for non-Catholics prosecuted during the Spanish Inquisition, its long battles fending off invasion from Portugal, and Spanish occupation in the 1900s, there really are not many landmarks to see in Chefchaouen. Chefchaouen is an Instagrammer’s dream – you cannot get any more aesthetic than this. It is a picturesque, charming town, great for wandering, relaxing, and soaking in the vibes. It is not an ideal city for those who like local experiences and off-the-beaten-path adventures, and dislike busy tourist areas.

Getting to and around Chefchaouen

Chefchaouen is in the north of Morocco (about 2 hours away from Tangier, Morocco’s northernmost city – just across the strait of Gibraltar from Spain). It quite out of the way from Morocco’s other highlights toward the south. It is usually a stop between Casablanca and Fez – about 5 hours from Casablanca and 3.5 hours from Fez. There is no train or plane access, so you are looking at either taking a bus, taxi, hiring a car, or joining a group tour from Tangier or Fez.

Our personal recommendation if you are traveling around Morocco is to hire a driver. You can hire private drivers in Morocco for very reasonable prices, and the convenience – especially with kids – is completely worth it. It is also a great relief not to have to worry about parking (Chefchaouen’s medina is pedestrian only), or police road checks along the way.

Once you are in Chefchaouen, the Medina is very walkable, with many amenities in and around town. If you plan to do day-trips and you do not have a car, you can hire a taxi or join a group tour.

::Our recommended 24 hour Chefchaouen itinerary::

Chefchaouen in the afternoon/evening

Plan to arrive at Chefchaouen by early afternoon. This is perfect for those coming from Casablanca or Fez. You have time to settle in and relax to your riad or hotel after a morning of driving, and let the kids unwind and decompress.

In late afternoon, plan to hike to the Spanish Mosque for sunset. The Spanish Mosque sits on a hill at the eastern edge of Chefchaouen and overlooks the entire Medina. It is a 1.5 km uphill hike from the eastern gate (Bob Al-Ansar), and takes around 30 minutes.

*Alternatively, you can catch panoramic views of Chefchaouen from hotel Dar Jasmine, which sits right under the Spanish Mosque. This is a much shorter 10 minute walk from the Medina, up ~ 200 steps or so. You cannot go into the hotel, but there is a landing just below where you can take in the views.

Where to have dinner

Chefchaouen has no shortage of restaurants. In the centre square, you will find hosts waving menus at each entrance hoping to entice customers.

We recommend Sofia Restaurant, which serves delicious traditional Moroccan tagine, and is the only restaurant that employs entirely women. Be aware that seating is limited, so you may have to wait if you arrive during peak hours.

Restaurant Belli Bar Ssour is another option for dinner if you are seeking traditional Moroccan fare. It has a lovely terrace that overlooks the town.

If you are looking for a little variety, Aozora is a popular Japanese restaurant just outside the Medina. Also consider Le Petite Chengdu, a Chinese restaurant just down the street.

Wander around the Medina at night

Let me tell you, this Medina comes alive at night. Especially around the main square, Place Outa El Hammam. You will find numerous vendors, bakeries, ice cream stalls (and aforementioned restaurants). Of course Big S and Lil S stopped at both the bakery and an gelato stand, like they didn’t just eat dinner. 😛

The rest of the Medina is equally vibrant, with shops lining the alleys and quaint restaurants tucked into corners.

Where to stay

Chefchaouen has a plethora of riads and boutique hotels to choose from.

Boutique hotels to consider include:

• Dar Jasmine – the hotel we mentioned above with the gorgeous view. This is an artfully decorated space with large gardens and outdoor pool. Breakfast is included. Book early (> 6 months) especially if traveling with kids, as the family suites book fast.
• Dar Echchaouen – this is a budget-friendly spacious property just outside the medina with large gardens and pool, and family rooms available. Breakfast is included.

We recommend giving serious consideration to booking a riad in the Medina, both for convenience and to experience living in one of the blue-washed houses. Riads are former family homes that have been converted into guesthouses, usually with courtyards, rooftop terraces, and generous shared spaces. Unlike riads in other Moroccan cities, we noticed not many riads offer breakfast. (This is likely because there are so many restaurants in the Medina that serve breakfast.) Riads are an excellent option for families, with space for kids to relax and play, and a kitchen to prepare snacks and meals.

Chefchaouen in the morning

Wake early and grab your cameras for a photo safari. Early morning is the best time to enjoy Chefchaouen’s blue streets. None of the shops are open (although many restaurants open early), but you can take your time meandering through the alleyways without the crowds, or (and this happens) waiting in line for photo-ops. This is the time to admire the details and take *all* the photos.

Some particularly photogenic nooks you will see on socials are actually photo-ops you need to pay a small fee for. Vendors or homeowners turn their space into a set specifically for tourists. We did not go out of our way to do this, but there are still so many spots in Chefchaouen to take organically gorgeous photos. We recommend going on a photo safari – you cannot help but stumble upon pretty corners and beautiful details.

A particularly lovely corner is Place El Haouta. This square has a beautiful fountain and gorgeous tiling, and you can often find painters capturing all the loveliness.

Also make sure to check out Said Juice Seller. This *is* a photo-op with a popping background of oranges against the blue houses, but you can also stop for a delicious glass of orange juice. (Our riad was right up the street from this spot, but unfortunately it was closed for 2 days straight while we were there!)

Where to have breakfas

If your riad/hotel does not provide breakfast, there are many restaurants that do. Most of these are set menus, where you can choose between traditional moroccan breakfasts, and western/continental breakfasts, all accompanied by orange juice and tea/coffee.

Cafe Clock is a popular option, with terraces that overlook the Medina. We chose a spot in the main square (because that’s where we ended up after our photo safari!)

Day trips from Chefchaouen

If you have another day to spare, we recommend getting out of Chefchaouen and going on a day trip. Our first recommendation is Akchour Waterfalls. Our second recommendation is Volubilis (which can be tacked onto a travel day to/from Casablanca or Fez).

Akchour Waterfalls

One of our favourite spots in Morocco, Akchour Waterfalls is a hidden gem. 45 minutes from Chefchaouen tucked in the Rif Mountains, Akchour Waterfalls is a beautiful breath of fresh air. (This experience is similar to the Ourika Valley hike near Marrakesh, but more rustic and less crowded.) There are 2 main hikes here – one to Akchour Waterfalls, and another to a natural stone arch called God’s Bridge. Trekking along the river, crossing rickety wooden planks, enjoying a meal or drink at a table set *in* the water… it says something when the waterfall itself is not even the highlight! You can also swim at the falls, but the water is *cold*. Even our driver tagged along for this, having never been despite being a native Moroccan and a tour guide.

We hired a local guide directly from the gate, although it is not strictly necessary to do so. The guide was very reasonably priced and it cut down on the mental work and navigation we had to do.

Volubilis

Volubilis is the site of the ruins of a Roman city from the 100s AD. It was captured by local tribes in the 200s, and acted as the ruling seat of Moroccan until the 11th century, where it was abandoned after the capital moved to Fez. The kids enjoyed walking through the ruins, and there are a number of mosaics and structures that are quite well preserved.

Volubilis is 3 hours away from Chefchaouen. While it can be done as a stand-alone day trip, we recommend planning a 2-3 hour stop here on your way to or from Chefchaouen.

Planning on traveling to Morocco with kids? Be sure to check out the rest of our Morocco series!