Destinations / March 5, 2022

The charming town of Nafplio and the Greek Peloponnese

If you’re looking for rustic charm and laid-back vibes, have a penchant for wandering ruins amidst stunning mountain backdrops, look no further than Nafplio and the Argolis, the Eastern Greek Peloponnese.

The Peloponnese is a peninsula that makes up the southern most part of mainland Greece. Most travellers know the Peloponnese for Ancient Olympia, in the west. Olympia is definitely a must-see sight, but it is 100% worth taking a detour, especially down the Argolis and into Nafplio.

It is a 2.5 hour drive from Athens to Nafplio, driving through Corinth. It is best to hire a car to explore this region. There is no rail infrastructure, but there is a bus between Athens and Nafplio that departs every 3 hours. The downside being this will make sightseeing in the area quite difficult. When we went, the bus schedule was not *entirely* reliable. (Hard to track down up to date info!)

We spent one extra day and night exploring this region, but it is possible to spend days here, just strolling along the shore, enjoying a meal al fresco, watching the world go by. From Nafplio, we drove to Olympia, 3 hours west. You can also continue further south and visit cities like Tripoli and Kalamata (olives, anyone?) There are ancient sites to visit in this region, too (is there anywhere in Greece that doesn’t?) As they are out of the main tourist tubs, these sites are quieter. We checked out Mycenae and Epidaurus.

Mycenae

Mycenae is 1.5 h out of Athens. There are day trip tours from Athens to Mycenae. Because we were driving, we stopped here along our way to Nafplio.

The story of Mycenae is captivating. These warrior-like people were the dominant civilization in Greece in about 1600 BC. Then they suddenly vanished, and we still don’t know why.

In the Iliad (possibly part true), Homer tells the tale of Sparta and Mycenae going to war against the Trojans (in present-day Turkey). This was in retaliation of the Trojan prince Paris’s kidnapping of the beautiful Helen of Sparta. They eventually won after sneaking their troops into Troy via the Trojan horse. The story is along the most famous in the world, and there have been tons of books and films about this era.

The location of Mycenae is stunning. The ancient city is built into a mountain slope with an incredible view. Nothing much remains of the ruin. There is a largely preserved entrance way (Lion Gate), adorned by a lion with its head missing. You can make out the impression of various buildings, and excavated graveyard sites. Most of the artifacts are now in the National Archeological Museum in Athens. Like most ancient sites, I recommended some sort of guided exploration, whether by tour group or self-guided. We booked with the guides on site, and it was helpful to have explanations of what we were seeing.

There is also a giant tomb, the Treasury of Atreus, carved into the side of the mountain. The design is almost reminiscent of the Egyptian pyramids. It was the burial site of the Mycenaean royal family. It’s believed that even Agamemnon was buried here.

Epidaurus (or Epidavros)

Epidaurus is an ancient site half an hour away from Nafplio. We drove into town, settled into our hotel, had lunch, and then drove out to this site. As we mentioned in our 14 day itinerary of Greece, Epidaurus is known for two things: 1) the birthplace of ancient medicine, and 2) the giant theatre with astounding acoustics.

Sanctuary of Asclepius

Mythology goes that Asclepius was born in Epidaurus. He was the son of Apollo and Coronis. Apollo murdered Coronis during Asclepius’s birth (for reasons of adultery), and took his son to the centaur Chiron, who trained him in healing. Asclepius became so powerful he even brought a man back from death. (This in turn angered Hades, who asked Zeus to kill him, and Zeus did.)

Epidavros became a famous place of healing, where ill Greeks and people from all around the Mediterranean came to pray to Asclepius. At the site, snake licks were a miracle cure. That is why the symbol of medicine – the Rod of Asclepius – is a serpent coiled around a rod.

Theatre of Epidavros

This ancient theatre, seating over 14 000 people, is one of Ancient Greece’s most well preserved sites. It has *incredible* acoustics. From the top row, you can hear someone whisper or sigh from the centre of the stage below. From June to August, you can catch performances here as part of the Athens Epidavros Festival.

We had a relaxing break at the top, and had a good time watching (and hearing) other tourists clap, talk, and sing. The views from Epidavros is excellent, too!

Nafplio

After exploring Mycenae in the hot sun, it was a stunning surprise to turn a corner and see sparkling blue water (with a castle in the middle!)

Nafplio is a historical little seaside town, nestled under a cliff (with another castle perched on top!) It’s a little bit sleepy, with a very relaxed vibe. The town does cater to tourists, but there is also a strong local flavour. It’s a very romantic town – narrow streets, quaint stores, flower trellises everywhere.

We returned after our trip to Epidavros in the late afternoon, and relaxed the night away. If you have the energy for more exploring, visit Palamidi, the castle over the cliff. It’s rather more of a fortress, build during Venetian occupation in the early 1700’s. There are 1000 steps from town to the top of the fortress.

Nafplio is made for wandering. Take a stroll along the seaside, meander into the cobble-stone streets of town. Enjoy some delicious gelato. Follow your nose to dinner at the traditional “BBQ” (aka gyros and souvlaki). Shop for souvenirs along the pedestrian alleyways. And the sunsets. The sunsets here are out of this world.

Nafplio was one of the highlights of our trip to Greece. It is a gorgeous, relaxing stay – and a lovely way to unwind from all the sightseeing.